1830s Bonnet (Of Immense Size)

I have a deep and abiding fondness of exaggerated styles.

1830s bonnet.

I just finished this bonnet, and frankly, that is amazing. Amazing, because this has been one of my perpetually unfinished projects for YEARS. I started this bonnet in April, 2006, at a workshop with Lynne Taylor. She developed the pattern, and even provided the exterior fabric. Over the years I'd work on it in spurts, then get distracted and put it aside. Even my friend Suzette (of Malvena Pearl's Emporium) worked on it at one point, and thanks largely to her contribution I got the gumption to finish the darn thing.

A larger photo spread is on my website at this page.

Underneath is a wire and buckram frame.
The interior is cream silk taffeta.

What you're looking at is a buckram and wire frame, covered on the outside with black cotton velvet and on the inside with cream silk taffeta. The bavolet, pleated trim, and ties are also silk taffeta, copper cross-woven with olive. The flowers are made of French ombre wired ribbon. Unfortunately the base is not mulled, so the buckram shows a little through the cream taffeta.

Exterior is cotton velvet. Bavolet and
pleated trimmings are silk taffeta.

This bonnet demonstrates improvisation to fix, well, things that didn't go right.

I cut the velvet for the brim too small, so it couldn't go over the leading edge. To solve that, I cut the cream silk with enough allowance to go over the leading edge. Hiding the cut of edge of that inspired the pleated trim that goes around the edge of the crown. The stitching for the pleated trim goes all the way through to the inside; thus, I added the ruched trim on the inside. I actually stitched the ruched trim (inside) and pleated trim (outside) in one pass, to save some time.

The flowers and leaves are made from
wired French ombre ribbon

I had no idea what else to trim this bonnet with, but a couple of months ago I learned to make ribbon flowers, and inspiration struck when I found some French ombre ribbon on etsy. Nevertheless, this bonnet shows how unimaginative my hat trimmings are (compare the hat made for my by Lynn McMasters).

Well, this bonnet is done, as far as I'm concerned...now I just need something to wear it with....

Costume Collge Recap

Costume College ended nearly a week ago, and I've been so abominably busy that I haven't had time to write about it! Of course, it was a BLAST. There is nothing quite equal to a full weekend spent among fellow costumers. I always come away overwhelmed by the creative energy, and with sore cheeks from continually grinning at the fabulousness I see everywhere.

Classes: I managed to land FOUR limited attended classes, but while I learned some new and nifty things, I've decided that trying to get as many limited classes as possible is not the best Costume college strategy. I missed some really great unlimited classes, and also missed circulating and socializing (my favorite Costume College activity). I also taught a class this year, which made me too anxious to enjoy a class or two beforehand (but I'm not dissuaded from teaching again next year).

But anyway, here's what I created over the weekend.

Friday I spent the whole deal making a pair of Medieval turnshoes with instructor Kathryn Wolters.

Medieval Turnshoes.

The uppers are microsuede, I believe, the soles are leather, and the interior is cotton or a cotton blend. The tiny buckle is hand-cast pewter. They're built over three-quarter insoles, because my feet would hate me if I ran around in these with no support.

I would have finished these in class, but was stymied by the silly little straps. The last bit only took a few more minutes after class.

Saturday mid-day I took Boutis Provençal with Natalie Meyer. This is a technique similar to trapunto, but it leaves no holes in the back of the fabric. It was new to me, and I picture interesting possibilities with it.

Boutis Provençal sampler.

This I did not finish until several days after Costume College, and it took a very long time, despite that it's only about five inches square. I'll probably work this sampler into a thrown pillow or hand bag in the future.

Saturday afternoon I taught my class, Basic Lucet Weaving. It went...ok, I suppose. It could have gone better, and I got some ideas about how to do it better next time.

Sunday morning...early...I took Medieval and Renaissance Thread-Covered Buttons with Christine Megowan.

From left to right: vertical wrap, horizontal wrap with half-exposed spines, basket woven,outside loop, inside loop (names made up by me).

Sunday afternoon I took Make a Calash Bonnet with Janea Whitacker.

Pieces of a calash bonnet.

Unfortunately, this is exactly as far as I got. With only about three hours of class time, and doing all stitching by hand (and running in and out to collect my display from the exhibit room and visit the dealer room), I only managed to finish two channels and to attached the lining (pink) to the exterior (green). Oh well, onto the "to-do" pile it goes.